Tuesday, October 26, 2010

Eat Play Love

I'm full. To the gills, which by the way...were actually MOVING on the fish in Mercato Piazza Vittoria yesterday! It was that fresh!  My days in Rome are full. Piazzas. Walks. Cathedrals. Metro. Ruins. Markets. Creating and transforming space. Connecting with my colleague and with strangers.  I lay my head down in the wee hours of the morn after 11:00 dinners. Too exhausted to write. And with no complaints! Each day---I taste (in every sense of this word) something new and delicious. It's all punctuated by caffe---espresso shots while standing in a Bar (coffee, liquor, pastries...especially chocolate cornettos) throughout the city and the day. Food--- unbelievably fresh, delicious and tantalizing to all my senses, tells a story. Here are some Roman taste treats...

  • Cappuccino is only in the morning and early afternoon. Anything later and you just look like a tourist. There's even a caffe drink called "shacerado" which uses a martini shaker!
  • Fresh fennel bulb with artisinal olive oil is exquisite.
  • A six foot tall rosemary bush---wow.
  • I notice a lemon on the ground, look up and see I'm standing under a lemon tree.
  • Suppli is delicious---jalapeno poppers pale in comparison.
  • Pizza----ahhhh, with crusts that are crusty. Not overloaded. Simple. Divine. Rectangular in shape. You just show how many inches you want and the purveyor cuts with a scissors. Loved the one with zucchini flowers, proscuitto and stragatta? (must check on this name!)...a tangy, soft cheese. Swoonworthy!
  • Buffalo mozzarella from the market with oil, and fresh basil. Wow. Add a splash of balsamic if you like. (By the way---never put buffalo mozzarella in the frig. Also, before eating, soak package in water about 1/2 hour. Releases some chemicals .)
  • Bruschetta. First...you pronounce this "brew-sketta". Now---here's how to make it, Tuscan style. Grill/toast in oven slices of good, crusty bread. Serve a slice or two to each person. Now pass the whole cloves of garlic--each person takes one. Scrape it over the bread to coat. Drizzle with your best olive oil. Add spoonfuls of chopped fresh tomatoes (pomodoro) that have marinated in olive oil, crushed garlic. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt. Eat. Swoon. Add fresh basil if you like! This is a magic combination of texture---crunchy plus tomatoes---and flavors....ahhhh.
  • Almost everything is better with good olive oil.
  • The Best Cannoli Ever. Just blocks from our flat. The Sicilian way. Fresh. Sunday morning. Men outside at the cafe tables watching the football game on the screen on the wall of the Bar. Me, inside in the dark. And there---the fresh Sicilian pasties. I instantly desire one of each---but practice restraint. I say "Un cannolo." He (older, swarthy, looks the part) hands me a spoon overflowing with a dollop of the ricotta cream filling. I taste it. Oh yes...and I love that it's not too sweet. Then he asks if I'd like fruit or chocolate in it. Chocolate, I say. He goes into the back room (behind an old floral print curtain)---and emerges  a couple minutes later, handing the cannolo (it's masculine, of course!) to me. It has chocolate not only on the ends but across the top (Alberto says this is unusual). I commit...turn all my attention to this divine masterpiece, and take a good full bite. Wow. Again, the textures. The crispy shell just now filled with the smooth cream. Nirvana. And grazie grazie grazie! I'll definitely be back. In fact---today---on my way for an "orange" shaped savory deep fried number with rice and sausage and herbs in it---which will be my lunch. Oh yes to that! 
  • I've had incredible home cooking almost every night. So fresh. Otate (sea bass) stuffed with citrus. Cakes. Creme de Caramel. One meal of Fettucine Salsiccio (sausage) AND Ravioli with spinach and ricotta. Delicious bright green olives. Lox with Sardinian olive oil and capers. Homemade jams. Crunchy bread. Powerful hard cheeses. Melty soft cheeses. Salami.  Cornetti for breakfast.
  • Italian "jerky" sticks are hot and greasy and to die for. It's an athletic experience. Make sure you have a napkin or paper towel----you'll need it when you're done! 
  • Spicy Himilayan lunch yesterday near the big farmer's market  (vendors primarily Bangladeshi). A delicious twist of flavors in the heart of Rome. 
  • Colorful, lively local outdoor markets. Fresh fresh fresh food everywhere. Abundant. Verdant. Enticing. Fruits and veggies (next to push up bras). Salted fish. Spices. Herbs. Cheeses. Crusty Breads---you can buy a whole or a half, really whatever size you want. Fresh oils. Vats of wine---you just bring a plastic liter bottle (a soda bottle works great) and voila, out comes the wine out of the spigot.  Easy peasy. At all meals, of course!   
  • Salad comes after the meal. Zesty, peppery greens splashed with balsamic vinegar and olive oil.
  • Gelato! Everywhere. All the time. Wild, fun flavors. Haven't tried Celery yet. Dished up with a trowel (not a scoop). A 2 Euro cone gets you two flavors. Smooth. Rich. Zesty. I limit myself to one a day!
  • Warming pizza in a fry pan works great (keeps crust crunchy.)
  • Here's how to cut a whole swordfish: Put it on its side. Place a large (about 2 foot will do) chef's knife at the place of the desired thickness of the steak. Hold knife with your left hand---and whack the top of the knife with a large hammer/mallet. Voila! 
  • What not to do. Oops. This morn, I placed the electric espresso maker on the gas stove (by accident, since this is how I use my little espresso maker)...so I'm off to walk to the appliance vendor! Fortunately---he's just 1/2 mile away in the neighborhood---just like everything!
  • Sharp knives readily available---the Knife Sharpening Man (I'm sure this has a name) came by this morning...announcing his availability with a plaintive cry on the street! Feels very old world. 
  • Burada (note to self to check the spelling). Soft cheese. Like butter. A large scoop like ice cream appears at the end of our meal, in my bowl---"Oh no, I couldn't eat this much I say." "Try it, and see" says Alberto, smiling. I taste it. My eyes roll back in my head. It disappears.   

I'm an epicure in heaven! Pulsating with Italian food pleasures. We joke about the Seven Deadly Sins. Is this gluttony? Or, as I prefer to think...is this savoring manna every step of the way. A pilgrimage of sorts.  I'm here in the land of food. I taste. I eat. I savor. I do as the Romans do. There's incredible delight and connection and joy with the Italian people with each bite. It's HOW I'm experiencing Italy. It's the most delicious doorway/entree I know.  As a result...I have a little Italian food "baby" growing in my belly! I look a couple of months pregnant! I can't think of a sweeter conception. I'm literally eating, playing and loving my way through Rome!

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